In loco parentis?
De disciplinering van leerlingen onder het dak van Antwerpse ambachtsmeesters (1579-1680)
Bert De Munck
In loco parentis? Disciplining apprentices under the roof of Antwerp master craftsmen (1579-1680)
Living-in apprentices are often seen as an anachronistic category of impotent individuals, bound to disappear in modern times. In absolute numbers, they were indeed shrinking, but precisely that seems to have caused a sort of self-confidence – at least of their parents, who had other opportunities for their son in case the apprenticeship didn't work out. Especially outside their own private sphere, the patriarchal power of masters seems to have been limited, not as a consequence of structural transformations leading to larger firms and an advanced division of labour but due to the labour market and the nature of the indenture. In any case, authority was subject to negotiations, probably even causing changed attitudes vis-à-vis the sensitive boundaries between the shop floor, the house of the
master and the parental home of the apprentices.
Adellijke consumptie en levensstijl.
Een terreinverkenning aan de hand van de huishoudjournalen van Livina de Beer, gravin van Bergeyck (ca. 1685-1740)
Koen De Vlieger-De Wilde
Aristocratic consumption and lifestyle. A survey on the basis of the household accounts of Livina de Beer, countess of Bergeyck (ca. 1685-1740)
Consumption has long been appreciated as a cultural activity involving status, identity and taste. The present article confronts this statement with the household accounts of the noble family de Brouchoven de Bergeyck (1689-1738). Firstly, it shows that the count and countess efficiently managed their status, combining ‘aristocratic’ status consumption and ‘bourgeois’ saving-for-the-future. On the one hand they expressed their high, noble and ancient status by their consumption, on the other hand they applied to endless maintenance and repair, second hand buying and selling, hiring and leasing (and having good reasons to do so!). Secondly, the Bergeyck family reconciled conservative and innovative consumption: while cherishing ancient heirlooms they wrote lettres to intermediaries and visited shops to obtain the newest fashion.
Lieve jongens, stoere meiden.
Het matrozenpakje in genderperspectief, 1770-2000
Ignaz Matthey
Sweet boys, sturdy girls. The sailor-suit in gendered perspective, 1700-2000
The sailor suit was the first international children’s fashion which made a clear distinction between clothes for children and adults. The earliest sailor suits for boys date from about 1770. The main characteristic of this fashion was the sailor pantalon. The sailor suit matched with the new concept of childhood as an age of innocence. In 1846 the sailor suit with a shoulder collar was introduced. Initially
it was only for boys, later on followed adaptations for girls. Boys in a sailor suit often made a feminine impression, while many girls in sailor dress had a masculine look: a reversal of the gender stereotypes. The sailor suit fashion came to an end in the 1960’s, when the differences in clothing between social classes, sexes and ages diminished.
Vijftien jaar van het leven van Abraham Tuschinski (1886-1942).
Tekst en context van een zogenaamde autobiografie
André van der Velden
Fifteen years in the life of Abraham Tuschinski (1886-1942). Text and context of a so-called autobiography
From January 1927 until February 1928, the film magazine 'Tuschinski Nieuws' featured a series of articles about the career of cinema owner Abraham Tuschinski. While the reader is made to believe that it is an autobiographical document, the text was probably written by a ghost-writer (most likely Max Tak, a close collaborator of Tuschinski). Van der Velden deconstructs this text to test the validity of the document for film historical research. On the basis of a close analysis of the narrative and using additional sources, he argues that Tuschinski’s so-called autobiography was intended to position Tuschinski as the foremost Dutch movie mogul, thereby obscuring the fact that he was but one in a close network of Eastern
European Jewish immigrants who were active in the film exhibition business.
Makelaar in intellect.
Johannes Nicolaas Sebastiaan Allamand (1713-1787) als intermediair tussen schrijvers en uitgevers
Rietje van Vliet
A knowledge broker. Johannes Nicolaas Sebastiaan Allamand as mediator between writers and publishers
The history of books focusses traditionally on writers and publishers. This relationship seems to be in this view rather simple: clever entrepreneurs versus clumsy creative persons. Actually, in the eighteenth century the world of the book is far more complex. Publishers have their agents to distribute their publications, but they also have brokers who introduce them to succesfull writers and who put forward proposals about translations and contrefaçons. It is not easy to tract those mediators, for current sources as book sales catalogues and the rare publishers archives hardly shed lights on these persons. The importance of knowledge brokers will be demonstrated beyond any doubts by means of the correspondance
between the networker Johannes Nicolaas Sebastiaan Allamand (1713-1787) and the Amsterdam bookman Marc-Michel Rey (1720-1780). Brokers like Allamand turn out to have been an essential link to the successes of the book trade in early modern times.
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